I watched it this week because I tested HBO on Demand channel with the new cable service I got. It is to this day one of the best if not THE best episode I've seen of GoT. And it is surprising because it's a season opener. Usually you don't get that with the start of a season unless is some amazing pilot meant to hook you in.
Gave it a 10 for how it introduced Dorne and Oberyn, for the Arya & the Hound tandem adventures and Arya's transformation when killing Polliver, for the set up of the conflicts when Jon testifies about his wildling adventures in front of the NW leaders, for Jaime's rounds of verbal sparring with Tywin and later on Joffrey, for everything really and that includes the little scene with Ygritte and Tormund and the Thenns. "I fucking hate Thenns."
I must say I was surprised when I realized that the episode was written by Benioff and Weiss. It's not that I doubt they can write. I just didn't think they could write THIS well. Then again, they also wrote some that stank to high heaven.